Thursday, February 25, 2021

Te Taitokerau To The Top (My First Big Camp)

 

Day 1. After leaving Otaika, Whangarei where we had lunch, we carried on to Kawakawa and stopped in to see the world famous mosaic toilets designed by a German Artist. The sun smiled on us all the way to Waitangi. We arrived with an hour to spare so the kids grabbed a towel and hit the water. Being our first swim stop, we knew the kids would enjoy that...and they did.

We stood at the waharoa of Te Tii marae. It was nice and calm as we waited for the first karanga. It wasn't long before the formalities of our first powhiri for the day were under way. We entered the wharenui. The floor boards creaked gently beneath our feet. We were lead to the photos of those passed away before being seated. Mr. Televave spoke in his mother tongue. The rangatira of the marae closed his eyes as if to say "thank you for bringing the language of your ancestors." And when Quintin stood to mihi, the wharenui was humming. Each word clear and concise, each gesture strong and appropriate. Again the rangatira of the marae responded with proud expressions. Carolanne's soulful voice kicked in and on her cue each waiata rang out like a tui in full song.

Dinner was ready by the time our beds were made. A whanaunga of Whaea Leanne served Lasagne with green salad and graced us with an amazing homemade cheesecake. It only drizzled a little, however the temperature was cool and by the time the rain fell hard we were tucked up and snoring at Te Tii Marae. This was an unforgettable day for them.


Day 2. Morning drizzle turned to a short stint of downpour which drummed on the podium of Waitangi museum. We collected our activity clipboards and made our way into the entrance. The walls are mezene and polished granite. Inside the faces of the greats who fought and stood for the preservation and protection of our land glowed from glass frames down the hall. Miniature models of Aotearoa in her day enabled our kids to see a colonial environment. For the teachers it is an emotional walk as we know of the many injustices that eventuated in that time. Our rangatahi sensed that there was a great struggle, one that was more than what is taught today. Their questions were inquisitive and all were engaged. We watched a short clip of the signing of Te Tiriti o Waitangi before moving up to the govt house.
By now the rain had settled and most clouds had cleared away.
The powhiri was amazing. Although it was a tourist version so it's tweaked to give our visitors a show, it was very entertaining. The talent of our people boasted in every corner of the Waitangi grounds. Carved master pieces, literate written pieces, art from harakeke and specially shaped tools to create the mounds and grooves of our history.
Ngatokimatawhaorua rests at the bottom of the hill. Thousands stroll along side in awe. Her intricate designs explored by thousands of hands every year. The taurapa stretched a few meters high and although she boards tangaroa once every year, she seems very much alive. We were given chalk and a paper so our rangatahi could choose a pattern to trace.
We had lunch outside the park before making our way toward Te Hapua. Kaeo was a fill up and lolly stop. The rain didn't fall until Kareponia. It pelted down at our arrival at Te Hapua, where our next powhiri began. Whaea Leanne stepped in teko because I distracted her and the only person cried out in silent laughter was Mr. Televave. Of course he had to comment about it being a landmark.
This time Curtis stood to represent us on the paepae and left yet another whānau in awe. We ate American-Samoan Hotdogs for avo snacks and Whaea Hera and Whaea Leanne's amazing pork bone boil up with fluffy fried bread slathered in butter for dinner.
Another unforgettable day.

Day 3. The roads were a challenge, but with expert feet like Whaea Leanne and Whaea Hera, safety was the utmost priority and once we hit the tar sealed road all butterflies had settled. Our kids were up before the sun and excitement buzzed in the air. The moment they'd all been waiting on had finally arrived. Rose and Dave explained the history of the sand dunes and the surrounding rohe, and how the sand settled in the North after an eruption in Rotorua more than a thousand years ago. After karakia we started on the smaller dunes. The sand was soft like flour, and looked like goldrush icecream that stretched out to a blue and silver horizon. We traveled like ants, on a mission to experience the great adrenalin rush. It wasn't long before we ventured onto the large dunes. Even all the teachers, and like adventurous kids they prepped their boards and skimmed the golden sands of Te Taitokerau. A cloud passing through opened a reign of wet bullets on us, but within minutes the sun was in town and stayed with us for the rest of the day. Of course we couldn't leave without a good collision. Poor Mrs. Malele came powering over the rise straight into Manaaki who'd been sitting up wiping sand from his eyes. 
Rerenga Wairua, the end of the earth where all spirits make their final journey back to Hawaikinui. Although we'd just spent 3 hours on the dunes, our energy levels were still high. From the bus to the tower it is approximately 700 meters. The stroll was lovely, the breeze was gentle, and the view was startling. At the bottom the waves threw themselves against the jagged rocky edges. It wasn't just a tower with the sea behind it, but a landmark surrounded by mother nature, the meeting of two oceans, the meeting of East and West, the meeting of spirits and even of the living. Our Rangatahi were interested in the stories of the spirits, Stories that I unfortunately had no knowledge of. Their questions included "Is Hawaikinui out there?, What do the spirits do? Is that where my Mum and Dad will go and what about me? How many spirits out there? Is it only for Maori? I suggested when we return to school, that can be part of our continued research.
This was truely a unique and spiritual place that only the great Master himself could created. 
Te Putaputa was our last swimming stop before heading back to Te Hapua. Whaea Hera walked along the steam side collecting maori rongoa. Our rangatahi flapped about in the wet sand before taking a long dip. When the sun moved beyond the hills, we packed up and made our way back to Te Hapua where the aroma of hangi filled the air. It was a clear night sky and all eyes were closed by 10pm. 

Day 4. Out to the West.
The morning came in on a crispy breeze. The dining room echoed with drumming feet and laughter spilled out of the kitchen. Trifle and cream for breakfast, or hangi, fried bread or smoked fish was offered to further tickle our fancies. After clean up we took a stroll up to Te Hapua School. It seemed appropriate to visit in full school uniform. Once again our roopu represented our all the values of our school. Te Hapua does not have free and ample access to wifi like our kids do, so we appreciated the different learning environment they have to us. What is important to a country school student is being land savvy, harvesting their own kai and diving for kai moana, swimming for exercise and getting about on horse. Time was of the essence so after 20 minutes we waved our goodbyes and as we headed toward the wild wild west, a family of horses clopped ahead of us as if to usher us out of this humble town of only 150.
The rain followed up until Ahipara where the sky was baby blue and the waves slapped along the shore. We scoffed into our ham rolls. Some of our boys hit the water with Mrs. Patea and Mr. Televave, the rest chilled on shore with Mrs. Malele while Whaea Hera checked out the tuatua spots. The beauty of Ahipara, forever in our minds.
Pawarenga is a paradise tucked away in a Western valley. Surrounded by lush green mountains and myriad of mangroves, it was stunning portrait of an untouched haven.

We couldn't leave without visiting Whaea Hera's church. Wonderfully built with historical character and fresh paint, this was a must see. Inside the church the rays transcended coloured beams that spilled over the pews. Down the hill a couple of local kids pranced around on horses. Their smiley faces recognised us city slickers and they flicked their eyebrows to greet us. Whaea Hera received hugs left right and centre and as we drove out of Pawarenga, I could feel her love for her hau kainga, her whenua, her iwi, her whanau, deeply rooted in her heart.
We arrived at the ferry with time to spare for a couple of shots. A 15 minute ride across to Rawene set us on a 20 minute drive to Pakanae where Mrs. Lunjevich and Papa Scotty had dinner in the oven. The scenery was spectacular. Another haven, lush, unspoilt and natural. The karanga travel in waves, from manuhiri to tangata whenua again and again. Words and greetings of love were shared. Tight hugs were exchanged. Papa Scotty and his family stood proud and humble as did we. The dinner tables were laid with Sheppie pie mince, veges, roasted kumara and potatoes along with Apple cake pudding and icecream. This was a beautiful end to an awesome day.

Day 5. On the Homestretch. 
Another crispy morning under shy greyed clouds. The weather gods looked down on us for the rain only drummed when we were dry in our vans. Mrs. Lunjevich took care of our breakfast with the garden to table crew. Juicy fried sausages, tender smoked fish, Toast and fresh pancakes with cream. After clean up we met in the wharenui. All eyes were wide and teary as Whaea Hera gave her beautiful whakapapa from the top of the North and around the motu. Mrs. Patea thanked Papa Scotty and the tangata whenua for opening their doors for our babies. We sang, we cried, we laughed, we hugged and left the final marae of our Kiwi camp tour. 
 Around the corner an intimate treasure called Opononi. Our stay was only minutes and it was as if we needed another week to soak in its natural beauty. 
 We arrived to Tanemahuta. The rain was still holding back for us, and unfortunately, we couldn't go in to see Tane. We entered further up to visit 'the three sisters". Grand and Mighty they stood. Each commanding your complete attention. 
 In less than an hour we'd gone through a couple of small towns, including Kaihu where we parked up to mihi to Whaea Leanne's mum. 
The kauri museum was amazing. Like the Waitangi museum, it was rich with New Zealand Heritage and treasures. The guides came down stairs to listen to Mr. Televave play a tune on the piano. Our kids were really well behaved and it was lovely to see them appreciating ancient NZ artefacts. 

The ride home was smooth and we didn't have any traffic to contend with (until we reached Auckland Harbour). The sights were incredible, the marae were welcoming and most of all, our kids were able to bond, share their experience with each other and know the importance of holding onto our traditional ways, following our tikanga, ensuring to karakia at the appropriate times and respect the lands that were given to us. As kaitiaki and ambassadors of land and te reo, this haerenga has only enhanced each one's identity. And that's what it has always been about. 
Kia ora Whaea Hera and Leanne for planning out our trip and all the pouako who'd woven all the outside seams to ensure my kids had the experience of a lifetime. 

Snaps on the Wairarapa (2018 Y7&8 Camp)

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